GIFT OF I EXLIBWS THE HIGH RANGES OF TRAVAIMCORE J1HE High Ranges of Travancore rise suddenly from the lower plateau of the Cardamom Hills and form a complete range of their own. On the S.E. corner the High Ranges begin with Sholarrnlley, or Currincollum (8480 feet) as it is better known, and run in a S. W. by W. direction to Gennewurra, thence still S % W. by W. to Corechy, and thence to Puddikut (6000 ft.) near Davycollurn in the map. From Puddikut the line of walls runs in the same direction to Coorkacomboo (7000 ft.). Then running slightly more west the hills rise to Uhockena- muddy (7300 ft,), from which the course is N.W. to the gap, where the Moonaur river disappears. From the gap the Hills run slightly S.W. and then N.W. to Wonay- para Thundo ; thence north to Perumputty Kullo (6500 ft.). From Perumputty Kullo the direction is N.E. by E. to Aunymuddy (8837 ft.). From Aunymuddy the course of the High Range is much broken, and runs irregularly to Erevymalla, where there is a deep dip into the valley of the Erevymalla Aur, which separates the Erevymalla plateau (known also as Hamilton's plateau) from Perumalmalla plateau. From this valley is a steep rise to the north- west to Katoomalla (8100 ft.). To the west of Katoomalla the High Ranges comprise the plateaus within Chem-rnun 110 2 HIGH RANGES OF TRAVANCORE. peak (7100 ft.), Payratmallay (7400 ft.), and thence east- ward to Cdofaarikuh (.8pQ ft;). To the east of Coomarikut and Kato.om* jjay. lies the loVjJnjenaad valley, which sepa- rates this pa-r cl!ih*e"HigJv'^P^Pg es from the highlands on the slopes of Tertamalla. on which are situated the hill villages of Kelandoor, Kandal, Pootoor, and Perumallay, at an average elevation of 5000 feet. To the south-east of Tertamallay runs a ridge which separates the watershed between Unjcnaad and the Moonaur and joins the high peaks bordering the Pulnies at a peak called Allear Kun- noo (6900 ft.). From Allear Kunnoo the course of the High Ranges is bounded by a curve N.N.E. to Pambady Shola (8000 ft.), and then runs north to Kudduvurratukul (6600 ft.), where there is a deep dip into the Wuttawudda river, and here the high land may in that direction be said to cease. From Allear Kunnoo southward the line to Sholea- mallay, where we began in the S.E., is marked by clear cut cliffs averaging about 8000 feet. Exclusive of the low Unjenaad valley, which is not above 3100 feet, the area within these boundaries may be roughly estimated at 200 square miles, with an elevation over 5000 ft., and in the case of one of the peaks reaching as high as 8837 feet Much of this is worthless land, but there is- a good deal fit for cultivation. PLATEAUS. There are several small plateaus on the High Ranges separated from each other by the ridges intersecting the hills in every direction. There are also several beautiful valleys. Beginning at Currincollum in the S.E. corner, and HIGH RANGES OF TRA VANCORE. between it and Davymalla lies the Grudaram Alia plateau, at an average elevation of 6000 ft., and comprising about 4 square miles of easy undulating land well wooded and watered. To the west of this lies a narrow plateau, from which it is separated by Davymalla,^known as the Davy- collum plateau, containing about 3 square miles. This is a beautifully wooded and well watered plateau, averaging 6000 ft., and is easy of access from the Cardamom Hills. To the west of the Davycollurn plateau and separated by the Karuthpara Thundoo lies the beautiful Annaycudoo valley, sheltered by the Chockenamuddy peaks and ridges. This valley is about 6 miles long and 2 miles broad, and averages an elevation of about 5200 feet. It terminates in a broad meadow at Moonaur. From Moonaur runs to the north a narrow swampy valley towards Aunyinuddy and another narrow one to the N.E. to the Pulacadoo point in the map. Between Yagavurra and Aunymuddy lies a very pretty glen about one square mile in extent and averaging 7000 ft. There is a beautiful view from it of the south Travaucore hills, and to the west as far as the sea. North of Aunyinuddy and separated by a deep valley from it lies the Erevymalla plateau described bv Colonel Douglas Hamilton. It is about 6 miles long and about 3 miles broad, and is very bare of wood on its sum- mit ; but is well wooded on its slopes towards the Yedda- malla valley. It is a well watered plateau, and being at a good elevation (7300 ft.) has a cold bracing climate. It is however rather difficult of access. Separated from this plateau lies a small one about 2 miles long and li miles broad under Perumalmalla. This is about 7000 ft. highland some pretty views may be obtained from it. To the north of this lies a plateau sheltered between Katoomalla, Coomarikul, 4 HIGH RANGES OF TRAVANCORE. and Payratmalla. It is much broken, and averages between 6000 and 7000 ft. It is about 4 miles long and 3 miles broad. To the north of Katoomalla and Coomarikul lies another small plateau, terminating at Puddikutmalla, about 3 square miles in extent, and separated by a stream, run- ning into Unjenaad from the last mentioned one. This has an elevation of about 6600 ft. To the east of Katoomalla, Coomarikul, and Puddi- kut mountains, lies the Unjenaad valley, which averages an elevation of 3100 ft. and comprises an area of about 30 to 40 square miles at this low elevation. From the east of this narrow valley, in which are situated the vil- lages of Nashyvyle and Maroor, the hills rise rapidly to- wards Tertamallay, and the hill villages of Kelandoor, Kandel, Pootoor, and Perumalla stand on the fine undulat- ing slopes of Tertamalla and Ta uburun Kawva at an aver- age elevation of 5000 ft. To the east of this, and west of the high ridge of Wuridurra plain-top lies the plateau on which stand the Cottacomboo and Wuttawudda villages at an average elevation of 6000 ft. The greater part of this plateau is bare, having apparently been cleared of wood by the ryots : but the upper portion towards the top of the Pass into Bodynaikenoor is heavily wooded and well watered by the Wuttawudda river. The plateau is about 6 miles long and 2 miles broad. On the high land on Wundurra top there is some tableland over 8000 ft., but it is narroAV and very bare. South-west of the Wuttawudda plateau, ,rnd separated from it by a ridge, lies the Kundella valley, which is shel- tered by the northern slopes of Currincollum and the high ridges of the Kundella mountains. It is a fine open valley of 5500 ft. elevation, and has HIGH RANGES OF TRAVANCORE. 5 been at one time well wooded, but the woods have been greatly thinned by cultivation. There is a great deal of swamp land in this valley which might be brought into cul- tivation. It is about 6 miles long from the Wuttawudda ridge to Pullacadavoo (where the valley to the Moonaur already mentioned begins) and about 2 miles broad. These plateaus and valleys would, as regards climate, offer advantages as sanatoria, especially Davycollum in the south and Wuttawudda in the east, where the plateaus are accessible from the plains. Wuttawudda especially offers the advantage of being near villages which can supply provisions, and the thermo- meter in the dry weather months seldom rises above 60, while in the mornings it is often as low as 40 in March and April. PEAKS. The following are the principal peaks on the High Range. Feet Currincollum 8480 Davymalla 7300 Tell Itty or Coorcacomboo 7000 Chockenamuddy 7300 Vagavurra 8000 Allearmallay 6900 Feet Auny muddy 8837 Katoomallay 8100 Coomarikul 8050 Payratmallay 7400 Korumpara 7900 Pambad^shola 8000 Most of these Peaks merely run to a point ; Currincol- lum has however some small extent of tableland on its summit. The two most conspicuous are Currincollum and Aunymuddy. From the top of the latter is a beautiful and extensive view on a fine day of the sea to the west coast, the intermediate hills and forests making a splendid fore- ground. To the north can be seen the Anneymalleis and 6 HIGH RANGES OF TRA VANCORE. Cochin hills, and to the north-east the plains of Coimbatpor and the Neilgherries, also the Unjenaad valley, and to the south as far as the eye can reach the Cardamom hills and the ranges of hills beyond Peermaad, and to the south-east a glimpse of the Bodynaikenoor valley. The view in fact comprises four provinces otherwise than Travancore, viz. Coimbatoor, Madura, Malabar, and Cochin, The view from Currincollum is also very grand, and the stupendous precipices on its eastern face add a peculiar grandeur to it. The views from the other peaks are fine, but not to be compared to Auny muddy and Currincollum. A uny muddy, though very precipitous, is accessible from the north, and with less ease from the east, but is inaccessible from other sides. There is a small tableland at the top, and a spring of water near the summit. It is a great ibex find, and on one occasion I numbered a herd of seventy. For ascending ic,the best plan is to camp in the glen under it, and the ascent on the north is comparatively easy though steep. Currincollum is easily ascended from the Gudaram Vila plateau, and the other peaks are all easy of ascent. Davyrnalla has a strange feature about it which deserves mention, viz. a trench cut on its S.W. face which tradition says was made to protect a beautiful princess who had taken refuge on the peak, RIVERS. The following are the principal streams that rise on tiie High Ranges. 1. The Moonaur. 2. Davycollum Aur. 3. Yedda- mallay. 4. Paimibaur. 5. Wuttawudda. 6. Kodandoor or Chinnaur. If tCli RANGES OF TRA rANCORE. J The first three of these have their rise on the High Ranges and flow into the Perryaur. The other three fall into the Ambravutty in the Coimbatoor district. The Moonaur drains the Currincollum Kundella 7 Chockenainuddy,and part of the Aunymuddy Ranges, and by the time it reaches the Moonaur meadows, is a stream nearly 40 yards wide. Be- fore leaving the High Range it forms for itself a singular subterranean passage under its old channel, and does not reappear for some distance, and at a much lower elevation than where it disappears. The old channel no doubt is used in the monsoon, as I noticed debris of tirober on the rocks evidently brought down by the heavy floods. There is a shaft worn in the granite bed of the old channel which deserves mention. It is 15 feet deep, and has been worn till it has a clean opening, at the bottom of which the sub- terranean channel is seen flowing. 2. The Davycollum stream drains the plateau of the same name, and falls over the side of the Puddikut into the Surien Alia valley. 3. The Yeddamalla river drains the western and northern slopes of the Aunyinuddy moun- tain, the western slopes of Perumalmalla, Katoomallay, and Payratrnalla. It is a broad stream when it has run a few miles' course, and passes through one of the finest wooded valleys on its course westward to the Perryaur. 4. The Paumbaur rises in Auny muddy, arid is a broad stream by the time it reaches Nashyvyal in Unjenaad. It is economized by the Unjenaad ryots for irrigating their terraced fields. 5. The Wuttawudda Aur rises south of the village of Wuttawudda at Allear Kunoo and joins the Ma- naputty stream. 6. The Kodandoor or Chinnaur rises on the south of Payratrnalla, has first a north-east course and then a due easterly one to where it joins the Paumbaur. 8 HIGH RANGES OF TRA VANCORE. Some few streams that would naturally flow into the Yeddamalla river have been turned by the Unjenaad ryots into their valley for the purposes of irrigation. There are few fish (except very small ones) in any of the High Range streams at the upper elevations, but when the streams reach 3500 ft. they are full of good fish. Some of these spots are known as the fish-stoppages (Meenmutty). FORESTS. The High Ranges have at one time been well wooded, but the Muduvars on the west and the Unjenaad ryots on the east have done much to strip the forests. In the Un- jenaad especially there is a scarcity of wood even for fuel, where a very wholesale destruction has evidently gone on for years. The best wooded blocks of land are found near Davy- coll um, Annacudueh, and near Moonaur up to Parwathyam Mallay. The slope of Aunymuddy at the source of the Paumbaur is also well wooded, but here the axe of the Mooduvan has done much damage. Nayar Mallay and the Kundella hills and the slopes of Currincullum on the north are also well clothed with forest; but the Kundella valley has been wofully cleared, and is becoming fast a bare open country, and the sides of the hills for want of forest pro- tection are being seamed and the soil washed away by the rains. The western slopes of Aunymuddy, Katoomallay and Payratmallay are still however well wooded, and the Yeddamalla valley is a mass of the finest forest scarcely touched by the shifty Hillmen. The destruction of these forests has been stopped within the last few years ; but in a large and scarcely visited tract it is not easy to entirely HIGH RANGES OF TRAVAXCORE. 9 stop the old custom of clearing forests for the sake of one crop. Much of the Neilgherry vegetation is found on these hills, arid the Neilgherry guava and rhododendron are found everywhere at an elevation over 5003 feet. The trees, though principally of soft growth, are of large scant- ling considering the high elevation. At such lower eleva- tion as 5000 ft,, the harder woods such as nangoo, congoo, white cedar, are found, but they are not abundant. The forests that have been destroyed for coomeri grow into dense reed clumps, and, I fear, as they gradually get burnt off by the fires, turn into grass lands. Some of the coom- eries however which have only had one crop taken off seem recovering their original character of fjrest, but it is seldom the Hill men will give their clearings the necessary rest for this. The Brazil cherry is found especially on the sites of old clearings ; but I have not seen the Alpine strawberry, so common on the Neilgherries. PATHS. There arc several paths to the High Ranges from the Cardamom Hills on the south. The best of these is the path to Davycollurn, which has been lately improved, and can be used by loaded cattle and ridden over. The other paths in the south are mere elephant tracks, and lead to Gudararn Alia and Moonaur. 2. Another and second route passable for loaded cattle is from Bodynaik- enoor to Wuttawudda by the village of Kotuddy. A third also fit for loaded cattle is up to Auny muddy from Odu- mella Petta via Unjenaad. A fourth is from Tircaroor on the west to Moonaur and thence to Unjenaad. This was formerly much used by bullocks from Odumella IVtfa, but C io HIGH RANGES OF TRA VANCORE. has been abandoned for many years. It is marked in the maps. There is a fifth from Odumella Petta to Payrat- malla via Michael's valley. The first one could easily be improved, and the distance is roughly estimated as follows : Miles No. 1. Bodynaikenoor to Davycollum ... ... 20 Davycollum to Moonaur 8 Moonaur to Aunymuddy 10 Aunymuddy to Katoomalla 14 Katoomalla to Payratmalla 7 Payratmalla to Michael's valley ... 5 64 No. 2. Bodynaikenoor to Wuttawudda 20 Wuttawudda to Moonaur ... 20 Moonaur to Michael's valley 36 76 No. 3. Odumella Petta to Unjenaad (Nashyvyal) 30 Unjenaad to Aunymuddy .. ... .. 15 Aunymuddy to Michael's valley . . . 26 71 The fourth is scarcely likely to be used, as a large tract of uninhabited country separates it from the High Ranges. No. 5. Odumella Petta to Michael's valley via Dullee and Pandy ... ... 35 Michael's valley to Davycollum 79 The third route offers in some respects the greatest advantages, as it passes through the Unjenaad cultivated valley, where provisions can be obtained, and routes can be opened from such a road either west to Katoomalla and Coomarikul plateau or east to the Wuttawudda Range. HIGH RANGES OF TRA VANCORE. I \ Odumella Petta, as far as I could judge, there would 'be no difficulty in opening a cart road, as the country offers no great difficulty up to Nashy vyal. The path from Auny - muddy to Michael's valley is a bad one, and loaded cattle could hardly use it in its present condition. From the west coast there are two means of getting to the High Ranges, viz. by the Gudaloor ghaut to Body- naikenoor, and thence by route No. 1 to Davycollum. There is another route via the Cardamom Hills which has the disadvantage of being through a feverish district. The first of these routes would be Miles From Cottayam to Peermaad 45 Peermaad to Bodjnaikenoor via Gudaloor and Cumbum ... .. 58 Bodjnaikenoor to Davycollum ... ... 20 123 The other route by the Cardamom Hills would be Cottayam to Peermaad ... ... ... 45 Peermaad to Collapara ... ... ... 55 Collapara to Davycollum ... ... ... 10 110 The first route would entail a journey through the Cumbum valley ; but with the exception of the 20 miles from Bodynaikenoor the distance could be accomplished in carts. The second route from Peermaad, besides being through a feverish elephant jungle, would entail a carriage of everything for 65 miles by coolies or bullocks. INHABITANTS. The inhabitants of these High Ranges are Muduvars, and as a great part of Unjenaad may be included into the 12 HIGH RANGES OF TRAVANCORE. High Ranges, the mixed population of the villages in Un- jenaad known as Kunuverse, Munnadees and others may be considered inhabitants. Kaders and Pelleyers also fre- quent these Hills, but do not reside on them. The census report gives the population as below. Vellalars H50 Chetties 258 Telugoo Chetfcies 41 Naikers 88 Carpenters 22 Chucklers 64 Cosuens ."> Pelleyers 5D8 Mussulmans 2 Maravers J 4s Muduvars 41) TOTAL 2375 In addition to these figures, the Muduvars who shift their harnlets on other parts of the High Ranges may be enumerated at over 100 more, which will bring up the population to 2500. The Muduvars claim a Tamil origin, and consider themselves equal to Vellalars. They are a fine handsome race, especially those who always reside on the upper ele- vations ; but the good looks are confined to the men, as the women, whom they keep almost as much out of sight as Mussulmans do theirs, are singularly plain. The men object to mamoty work, but are good men at axe or knife duty ; and carry heavy loads if allowed to do it swung over their shoulders. The men are well clothed and are fond of showy turbans, and the women are profusely orna- mented with cheap Madura-made jewellery. They culti- vate raggy at the upper elevations and shift their clearings yearly ; and thereby have in past years done much da- mage to the forests. A few buffaloes are kept by them, and latterly they have taken to keeping cattle, but no per- suasion will induce them to give up their wandering HIGH RANGES OF TRAVANCORE. 13 habits and settle down; but of all the Hill men found on the Travancore hills there seems some hope of their doing so eventually. Disputes among them are settled by the Head men called Moopens and Tallearies. These titles have been given by the Puneate chiefs, with whom the Muduvars appear to have come to Travan- core. The Muduvars get their lands free when cultivating in Travancore forests, but in Unjenaad have to pay a small knife- tax. They have to perform certain works when called upon to do so for the Cardamom Department, in consideration of receiving free lands ; and all ivory, wax, and dummer as monopolies are collected by them for the Travancore Government. They are clever in running up huts, and build very comfortable ones on their clearings. The Muduvars are not as cheery a race as their neigh- bours the Munans, but are fond all the same of a joke, and when well treated will work willingly. They eat most game except bison, and are great adepts at snaring both ibex and sambur ; and have nearly cleared out the latter. They are in terror of bison, tiger, and elephant, and can never be depended on as gun bearers when following them. Their usual formula on such occasions, when drawing near these animals is, "There is the animal; I am going;" and the Muduvar in most cases makes himself scarce. Those who live on the upper hills seldom suffer from fever, but the families who visit the lower parts of Unjenaad suffer badly. Venereal diseases are quite unknown among them, though families who have gone more westward towards the Travancore villages have become utterly demoralized. The Kaders and Pelleyers mentioned live principally in the lower jungles, but visit the upper ranges to collect honey and wax. The Kaders 14 HIGH RANGES OF TRA VANCORE. are a stout dark race with African features and crispy hair, and are supposed to be descendants of Portuguese slaves who had taken refuge on the Hills. They do not cultivate at all; but manage tc live well, and dress well, on what they collect from the jungles. They talk a mixed dialect of Tamil and Malayalarn. The Pelleyers, as far as I can learn, have at one time been slaves ; but possess small clear- ings of their own now, and besides engage themselves in collecting hill produce. Their language is Tamil. They as well as the Muduvars and Kaders have divided certain parts of the hills into Kanies, and any infringements on their fancied rights, whether the lands be within Travancore or British territory, are resented. They are all great destroy- ers of game. There is no doubt that these hills were at one time more occupied, as traces of inhabitants are found in the form of inscriptions on stones, and stone huts and ruins are met with. One stone building near Davycollum was in good preservation when I visited the hills in 1872, but on a subsequent visit with a view to photograph it, I found it had in the interim been much damaged by ele- phants. It was built of rough slabs of granite uprights, and was covered by huge sheets of stone, and was of the following dimensions. Length 24 feet 6 inches Width 7 6 Height 5 6 r lhere were several divisions or rooms, and the build- ing was probably used as a rest-house. The tradition was that abodes of this sort were built when there was a rain of fire and stones. In Unjenaad I have noticed col- lections of such huts built either of round stones with HIGH RANGES OF TRAVANCORE. 15 slab roofs, or in the same slab style as near Davycollum. There was the same tradition about them ; but there was also a suggestion that they might have been used for grain depots. Some of them are used by travellers in the pre- sent day as rest-houses. Below the Moonaur pass and to the west of it are the ruins of a building close to the old line of road between Odumella Petta and Cothamungalum. Some hundreds of granite lights are scattered about the jungle near the spot, and have amused the elephants, who kick them about. The place is known as " Pully Wathul " and " Eiram Vellukoo," the latter name alluding to the numbers of granite lamps. Opinions are uncertain whether a Mohammedan or Hindoo building existed where the ruins are found ; but the lamps are said to be offerings made by the merchants who formerly used the road, who were said to be Ravuten Mohammedans. The inhabitants of the Unjenaad are entirely of Tamil origin, and are supposed to have migrated from Madura with a refugee Pandyan prince. The larger pro- portion of them claim to be Vellalars, and some of them are called Kunuvers. They are all engaged in cultiva- tion, and have laid out their lands to the best advantage in terraces which are well irrigated by the streams from above. Some of the channels have been very cleverly traced, and their villages are perfect little pictures, pitched on the top perhaps of a hill and surrounded by their terraced fields. The Unjenaad Karakat Vellalars differ in their customs from their relatives of the same caste in the plains, and marry only among themselves. The Kunu- ver Vellalars, who principally live in the villages of Wutta- wudda and Kottacomboo, do not marry with the others ; 16 HIGH RANGES OF TRA VANCORE. but intermarry with the Kunuvers of the Ettoor villages on the Pulnies. The Kunuvers are a fair race of men, and living as they do at a height of 6000 feet, are free from fevers of the bad type that their neighbours in the low Unjenaad valley suffer from. Their women wear a peculiar girdle or band round the middle, which has rather a becoming effect. The Pelleyers are descendants of slaves, and are not allowed to live in the same villages as the Vellalars and Kunuver Vellalars, but have little settlements or Putties in the fields where the cattle are penned. These people are well clothed and look healthy and contented, and are allowed to cultivate land for themselves by their masters. The other castes seem to have settled in Unjenaad to pursue their various callings, but have mostly become cultivators. Petty crimes are settled by the village headmen, aided by the Munyacarn appointed by the Puneate chief. The headmen known as Munnady, Mundry, and Perrya Teyven, are also appointed by the Puneate chief, who re- ceives a certain payment in making the nomination. The title is kept in certain families. If the decision of the Munyacarn and headmen is not agreed to, appeal is made to the Puneate chief, and the chief's decision is seldom disputed. Though I have had the Magisterial charge of the Unjenaad for over eight years, with the exception of one complaint which was compromised, I have had no trouble with these people, whose worst crimes appear to be confined to petty assaults. In tlie low settlements bordering the Paumbaur the Unjenaad ryots suffer from jungle fever, and in some sea- HIGH RANGES OF TRAVAXCORE. 17 SODS many fall victims to it. In the upper villages the people seemed very healchy. The houses are made of wattle and dab, arid are surrounded by a wall and fence, with a gate of entrance into the village, as a protection from wild animals. The people do not seem to care for sport, arid are supplied with game by the Muduvars. They rear cattle, buffaloes, and sheep. The former are not the small breed common to the west coast, but of the large Coirnba- toor kind. Sheep appear to thrive well, and poultry seem abundant in the low lying villages. The Puneate chief receives from four to twelve annas a kuly for the culti- vated land. The following are the names of the villages in Unjenaad, with their populations and height above the sea. Houses. Inhabitants. Height* 1. JVhiroor 126 598 3500 '2, Xashyvyal 41 87 Unknown 8. Karoor 35 191 3800 4. Kelandoor 205 404 4850 5. Kandel 122 568 5200 6. Pootoor 17 157 5400 7. Perumalla 27 148 Unknown 8. Wuttawudda 44 155 6000 9. Kottacomboo 17 _67 5950 Total 634 2375 There were two other villages, named Walleshaputty and Maroomalla, which have been abandoned ; the village sites can still be traced by the terraces and old channels. GAME. Though the pasture on the upper Ranges is very good- and the cover ample, animals cannot be said to abound Of small game, there are jungle fowl and spurfowl, and a D 1 8 HIGH RANGES OF TRA VANCORE. few snipe and quail. Woodcock I have seen near Davy- eollurn, and put them up in the Anneycudoo valley. Bison are or used to be plentiful at one time ; but except in the Anneycudoo valley, Moonaur, and Davycol- lum, seem to have been driven away. They are still to be found in those localities in October., November, March, and April* On my first visit to Davycollum in April, 1872. when the country south and west of Aunymuddy was unknown to Europeans and undisturbed, the herds and solitary bulls were so plentiful that in a two days' visit I bagged three first class bulls and two smaller ones. The Muduvars who then alone roamed the plateau never molested the bison, arid herds of them might be seen in the open till a late hour in the day. With the frost and consequent drying up of the pasture the herds of bison seem to move into the western forests. Sambur used to be plentiful ; but have now nearly all disappeared, having, it is said, been killed off by the wild dogs. They are still to be found in small numbers about Moonaur. Elephants seem to visit these hills for a few days at a time and pass on to the denser forests either west or north, or into the Cardamom Hills. Ibex are plentiful, especially on the Katoomalla, Perumalmalla, Erevymalla, and Aunymuddy peaks, and I have counted as many as 70 head in a herd on the last mentioned peak. The Muduvars succeed in trapping them with nooses, and from some of the peaks where they were plentiful a few years ago they seem to have nearly disappeared. Tigers are scarce, and I have seldom seen their traces except near Moonaur. There are no jackals and not many monkeys. There are not many snakes, and I do not remember seeing any scorpions or centipedes, and the ever present crow has failed as yet to HIGH RANGES OF TRAVANCORE. 19 make his appearance. Indeed, as a sporting country these hills afford few attractions, arid a visitor would have to be satisfied more with the scenery and climate, and the shek- karry would have many drawn days. Near the villages of Unjenaad very good pig and sambur shooting can be had, and the villagers are always ready to get up a drive. CLIMATE ANT) SOIL. The climate of the upper Hills is very bracing ; and except for the difficulty of getting to them, would no doubt be visited from the plans. I have visited them in the months of March and April, and also been on visits in November, December, and January, and found the thermometer range between 45 and 60 in the house, in the former months and between 29 and 60 in the latter. In March and April there are, often heavy showers and mist, but the climate is delightful. November is for the most part wet, and in December and early in January the nights were usually frosty. From December to the middle of February the east winds blow strong and make it trying to natives. Davycollum and Wuttawudda, at a height of 6000 feet, are the most plea- sant of the spots 1 visited, and being more accessible, will DO doubt in time induce settlements. 'The soil on these Hills, especially in the valleys, is good, and wheat, barley, and potatoes would no doubt grow well. Potatoes have been grown by the Muduvars of a size and flavor quite equal to Neilgherry ones. In the Upper I njeiiaad villages onions, garlic, and wheat are grown. The wheat is of a coarse quality, but finds a sale among the trailers frcm the Coimbatoor side The paddy and raggy are grown mostly in the lower villages, but both are oulti- 20 HIGH RANGES OF TRA VANCORE, vated at as high an elevation as Wuttawudda. In the lower villages the jack, mango, limes, and oranges, as well a^ candal wood, are grown ; plantains of a, coarse kind are sultivated, arid I was surprised to see clumps of them at au elevation over 6000 feet. The sandal trees were small, but the wood was strongly scented. It is collected for the pri- vate use of the Puneate chief. The soil throughout Unjenaad is good, and there ap. pears to be enough waste land to support a much larger population, especially in the valley of the Paumbaur, and I have no doubt that in time cultivation will extend up the slopes of Vagavurra in the south west. The trade with Unjenaad is in the hands of Mussulmans from Odumella- Petta in Coimbatoor and Bodynaikenoor, and is arranged by barter, rice, wheat, and garlic being given to the trader for clothes, chillies, and brass vessels. Coffee has been tried on the Upper Ranges, but the site selected was too high (nearly 6000 feet) and failed ; but I have no doubt that it would succeed well at a somewhat lower elevation ; and tea and cinchona would grow in some of the forests. There are large forests to the extent of many square miles available for these purposes, and there being the great inducement of a good climate, it will doubtless not be many years before these fine hills get occupied. Labour would prove a difficulty, but not such a one as might not be overcome, and the Unjenaad valley would for some years produce enough grain for the early puttiers. The nearest point on the railway would be Ammanaik '.noor, about 70 miles from either the Wuttawudda or Davycollum plateaus. Very little is known of the mon- soou on the High Ranges : but judging from the rninfnll on the Hills to the immediate south, I should estimate it HIGH RANGES OF T RAT A. \CORE. 21 \ at TO to 80 inches. The Muduvars describe the monsoon as light, but that the mists are heavy. In March and April i have never known the showers fail, and these showers would be very essential for tea and coffee. The soil as already mentioned is every thing that can be de- sired, and it only wants capital and energy to bring a large portion of this fine tract into cultivation. What the latter can do has been shown by the ryots of Unjenaad, who have converted the grass and scrub hills into highly cultivated terraces of wheat, rice, and garlic. Having been requested by friends to reprint the sketch of the High Ranges, I send this to the press with a few alterations and corrections. Since I published it in 187 7, a portion of the High Range has been taken up by the North Travancore Agricultural Society, and operations in coffee, tea, and cinchona cultivation on a large scale have been begun, and a road opened from Bodynaikenoor to the plateau. An attempt to breed mules from Australian mares has also been begun, and a fine breed of cattle introduced. Considering the healthiness of the country, these oper- ations have every chance of success. J. P. MCXRO. Fcmnaad,Nov, 12 th, 1880, ^:|rtwt^ LOAN DEPT. L D2lA-50m ( 9'58 (6889slO)4